wood ear mushroom (A. politrica)The plant, widely cultivated in East Asia, is famous for its bioactive compounds that have hypoglycemic, antitumor, and antioxidant effects.
Beyond medicinal effects, A.politrica It is highly nutritious. Therefore, there is growing interest in exploiting its potential to create transparent thin films for various therapeutic applications in human skin, such as improving skin hydration and maintaining optimal water balance.
In this latest study, researchers formulated a spray (BE-FFS) using 0.74% wood ear water extract, 1.38% sodium polystyrene sulfonate (SPS), and 0.87% glycerin. This resulted in the best drying time of 2.21 min and occlusion coefficient of 2.5 min. 17.67.
The formulation was then evaluated for physical appearance, spray angle, spray pattern, and in vitro skin permeability on a synthetic membrane that served as human skin.
New spray effect
At pH 5, which matches the pH range of human skin, the researchers found that BE-FFS adhered to the synthetic membrane without dripping and exhibited a consistent spray pattern at an 82.46° angle.
This suggests that the blend of polymers can effectively envelop the skin, enhance hydration, and prevent water loss.
To evaluate the skin penetration of BE-FFS, two active compounds from wood ear water extract, ergothioneine (ERT) and gallic acid (GA), were selected as markers. The results showed that BE-FFS penetrated the skin steadily over 12 h, leaving a moderate amount of ERT and GA in the receptor medium.
Furthermore, the unique properties of BE-FFS, derived from natural polysaccharides and synthetic polymers, promote the accumulation of active compounds on the skin, promoting hydration and preventing water loss.
After BE-FFS was applied for 48 hours, a skin irritation test was performed using a Finn Chamber® allergy patch. BE-FFS exhibited a non-irritating profile with a low primary skin irritation index of less than 0.5.
This result suggests the skin-friendly nature of BE-FFS and warrants its safety for use on skin and consideration of further testing involving human volunteers.
The moisturizing properties of BE-FFS were also evaluated over a 4-week period. The results revealed a consistent increase in skin hydration from week 0 to his 4th week, indicating a marked improvement in hydration levels.
The significant reduction in transepidermal water loss after 4 weeks also suggests that BE-FFS can prevent water loss and moisturize the skin.
Skin protection effect of wood ear water extract
Prior to formulating and testing BE-FFS, the researchers also investigated the anti-inflammatory and skin protective properties of wood ear water extract (CW) using HaCaT cells as a human skin model.
The yield of the CW used was 20.99 ± 1.65%, and the total polysaccharide content was 748.2 ± 0.02 mg glucose/g extract. On HaCaT cells he tested CW at concentrations between 37.5 and 300 μg/mL and found a nontoxic concentration of 300 μg/mL (IC20).
This concentration was chosen to further investigate the anti-inflammatory activity and expression evaluation of filaggrin (FLG) and aquaporin 3 (AQP3), two proteins associated with skin hydration and enhancement of skin barrier function. .
For hydration, HaCaT cells were treated with CW at a concentration of 300 μg/mL for 96 h. This significantly increased the expression of AQP3 and FLG. This suggests that CW has the power to strengthen the skin barrier and increase skin hydration by increasing these important proteins.
Regarding the inflammatory response, when HaCaT cells were exposed to lipopolysaccharide (LPS) and incubated for 24 hours, the researchers found that the mixture of CW and LPS protected the cells from secreting the pro-inflammatory cytokine IL-6. discovered. This is a protective effect observed with CW alone.
Similarly, a mixture of CW and LAP slightly decreased the production of TNF-α, another anti-inflammatory cytokine, compared to CW alone. All these imply that CW can alleviate the inflammation caused by LPS and reduce the production of proinflammatory cytokines in HaCaT cells.
This suggests that CW may help protect the skin by fighting inflammation and improving barrier function.
BE-FFS as an alternative skin hydration product
Overall, researchers in the current study are confident about the possibility of: A.politricaCosmetics to make your skin healthier. His BE-FFS formula they derived showed effective skin penetration and helped improve skin hydration. This makes it a promising candidate for further clinical studies to test its effectiveness while remaining gentle and non-irritating.
“BE-FFS demonstrated a good potential effect in moisturizing the skin and preventing skin water loss. Perhaps the explanation is that the thin film polymer mixed with CW and synthetic polymer created an occlusive effect. “It is possible,” the researchers wrote.
“Also, from the results of the total polysaccharide content, CW is composed of many polysaccharides. Natural polysaccharides act as humectants and natural film formers, retaining moisture in the skin for a long time, Protects the skin barrier.”
Source: Cosmetics
Topical film-forming spray base based on Auricularia Polytricha as a natural polysaccharide with multifunctional biological properties and Brown Agaricus bisporus extract for skin hydration
https://www.mdpi.com/2079-9284/10/5/145
Author: Nichcha Nitthikan et al.
