I get asked this question a lot. “Is cuticle oil really effective if the nail plate is ‘dead’?” That’s a fair question, but the terminology floating around online can be confusing and misleading. The truth is that the nail plate is made up of dead keratinocytes, but that doesn’t mean proper care can’t help.
So, let me straighten things out and give you my best advice on why nail oil is essential and how it actually works.
The nail is “dead”, but that doesn’t mean it can’t take damage.
It is true that the nail plate is made up of dead keratinocytes. However, just because an organization is “dead” does not mean it is immune to the effects of everyday life. Think about your hair. This is also a “dead” keratinized cell. I’m still shampooing, situationand even apply masks and oils to moisturize and improve look, feel, and elasticity. The same applies to our nail plates. They may not be “living,” but environmental factors, repeated chemical exposure, or just everyday wear and tear can cause them to become dry, brittle, and susceptible to breakage.
What is the cuticle and what is the nail plate?
cuticle: The cuticle is a thin layer of dead, very sticky skin cells produced by eponychium that pops out along the growing nail plate, forming a protective seal at the base of the nail. This non-living tissue is important as a barrier, but when safely removed or softened and gently lifted during a professional service, it can prevent the nail coating from peeling off and keep the area beautifully trimmed. Masu.
Nail plate: The nail plate itself is a stack of flat, keratinized cells that emerge from the matrix. Although it is “dead” tissue, it can still grow if an optimal water and oil balance is maintained. This condition makes it stronger, more flexible, and less likely to peel or crack.
From “cuticle oil” to “nail & skin oil”
Many top brands have stopped calling it “cuticle oil” and now call it “nail & skin oil.” I’m very passionate about the evolution of this language. This shift in terminology is more than just marketing. We recognize that the real value lies in moisturizing and protecting both the nail plate and the surrounding living skin structures, including the lateral nail fold, proximal nail fold (PNF), and lower nail layer. These areas are highly active and form an important protective seal that helps protect the delicate substrate in which nails form and grow.
In fact, there’s no point in moisturizing the “cuticle” itself, since we’re removing the actual cuticle (the non-living, sticky tissue that forms that vital seal). Instead, we focus on conditioning the living skin around the nail and the nail plate itself to maintain a healthier, more flexible, and less susceptible to damage environment.
How certain oils penetrate and protect
Not all oils are created equal. Some, such as jojoba oil and avocado oil, contain smaller or more elongated molecular structures that can easily penetrate the superficial layer of the nail plate and surrounding skin. It won’t penetrate deep into the center of the nail plate like water soaks into a sponge, but repeated applications can penetrate the upper layers. This penetration traps moisture, provides flexibility and protects it from brittleness and breakage.
On the other hand, tocopherol (vitamin E) molecules are large and difficult to penetrate completely on their own. However, they are still incredibly beneficial. When blended with natural oils, tocopherols can “interfere with the ride” and some of them can be deposited just below the surface. In fact, this is where you need it most, providing antioxidant protection near the surface of your nails to help prevent discoloration, UV damage, and brittleness over time.
Three important moisturizing categories
Three categories of moisturizing ingredients work together to maintain healthy nails and skin: emollients, humectants, and occlusives. Emollients smooth and soften by filling the small gaps between cells, improving flexibility and texture. Moisturizers draw moisture into the nail plate and surrounding skin, keeping it hydrated. Occlusive creates a protective barrier that seals in this moisture, preventing it from escaping quickly and protecting you from environmental stressors. High-quality nail and skin oils provide a balanced approach to nourishing the nail plate, maintaining skin integrity, and promoting a well-hydrated and elastic surface. , often contain blends of these ingredient types.
- Emollients: Filling the small gaps between cells makes them smooth and soft, improving flexibility and texture.
Examples: jojoba oil, avocado oil, almond oil, squalane - Moisturizer: It draws moisture into the nail plate and surrounding skin, keeping it well hydrated.
Examples: glycerin, hyaluronic acid, - Coverage: Creates a protective barrier that locks in moisture, prevents moisture from escaping, and protects against environmental factors.
Examples: lanolin, shea butter, petrolatum, cocoa butter
Why use conditioning oil?
Conditioning oil doesn’t just sit on top. Helps create a more flexible and impact-resistant environment. This flexibility reduces the chance of nail polish breakage and extends the life of your nail polish, whether you use polish, gel, enhancement, or just Au Natural. Additionally, this oil helps maintain the health of the surrounding skin, promoting proper barrier function, reducing hangnails, and promoting overall nail health.
In other words, the nail plate is not alive, but it still accepts what you apply. These purpose-built oils enhance appearance, support durability, and protect against external stresses. Combined with regular use, it creates a consistent layer of protection that regularly conditions your hair to maintain shine, flexibility, and elasticity.
The conclusion is:
- Yes, the nail plate is in a “dead” state, but it still benefits from oil to maintain flexibility and prevent damage.
- “Nail & Skin Oil” is a more accurate term than “cuticle oil” because it focuses on the living skin around the nail and the nail plate itself, rather than the removable cuticle.
- Certain oils, such as jojoba and avocado, penetrate and condition the top layer of the nail and the surrounding skin. Tocopherol (vitamin E) protects and prevents unwanted chemical reactions at or near the surface, especially when present in these oils.
