In October 2023, former ballerina Emily Klein took her passion for beauty, design and natural ingredients to new heights when she co-founded Murmure, an indie skincare brand made in France. After dancing with the American Ballet Theatre for 10 years, Klein made the transition from ballet to beauty with a clear vision to create products that combined the elegance of ballet with the artistry of French skincare.
We spoke with Klein to learn more about what inspired her to start the brand, the research and development process that led to Marmure’s best-selling Mellow Mallow Cleanser and other botanical skin care products, and how the brand’s collection fits into current skin care trends.
The inspiration behind Murmure
“During performance week, I would often wash my face as many as four times a day,” Klein recalls. “During my season at the Metropolitan Opera, I had as many as three performances a day, which meant I had to frequently remove my heavy stage makeup.” This experience led her to develop Mellow Mallow Cleanser, a product designed to remove makeup and impurities without stripping the skin’s natural oils.
Mamule was born from a collaboration between Klein’s husband, Jonathan, and their friend Nicolas, a French pharmacist who specializes in botanicals. They were inspired by the lifelong research of Jonathan’s godfather, the famous herbalist Jean-Paul. “We began research and development with the idea of creating skin care products that combined Jean-Paul’s botanical discoveries, modern ingredients, and the artistry of French savoir-faire,” she explained.
The Science of Beauty
Mellow Mallow Cleanser embodies Murmure’s innovative approach, its formulation uses mallow flowers, known for their natural purple color and mucilage, along with modern active ingredients such as hyaluronic acid.
For products like Marmure’s bestsellers, the research and development process “starts with an idea for texture, color, scent and effect,” Klein said. “From there, we work closely with the R&D team to provide a detailed brief,” she said.
The formulation process then involves months of rigorous testing to ensure stability, safety and effectiveness. “It’s a long process, but it’s worth it to ensure we deliver only the highest quality to our customers,” Klein said.
Trends and Future Directions
Marmure is riding the wave of a skincare market that is currently favoring streamlined routines and multi-tasking products. “The market is clearly moving away from simple, single active ingredient formulas toward streamlined skincare routines,” Klein points out, adding that French skincare is also experiencing a resurgence, with brands such as Typology, La Roche-Posay and Caudalie gaining traction.
Going forward, Marmure’s research and development department will continue to explore lesser used functional extracts and natural fragrances. The brand is focused on developing innovative products that combine efficacy with a luxurious user experience, and Klein hinted at an exciting new product in the works. “Our team in France has been hard at work developing Marmure’s newest product,” she said. The new product is a “never-before-tried prebiotic and probiotic moisturizer,” due to be launched next month.
