Lucas Meyer Cosmetics by Clariant has developed Pickkmulse, a quinoa sword-making-based Pickering emulsifier, following extensive research into the natural emulsification process.
Pickering emulsions defined by Researcher“Only solid particles are used as stabilizers. This accumulates at the interface between two immiscible liquids (usually shown as oil and aqueous phase) and stabilizes the droplets against the coalescence. It is commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products.
This innovation stems from the need for stable surfactant-free emulsions that meet the latest formulation challenges in cosmetics and personal care.
We spoke with marketing specialist Amandine Werle. Aurélie Trunet, Product Line Manager Functional Ingredients. Christelle Roy, Formula Project Manager. Lucile Raffray, R&D project leader at Lucas Meyer Cosmetics by Clariant, learns in detail about the R&D process behind the launch of the ingredients.
Scientific foundations and R&D processes
The research leading to pickles was driven by academic research into the functional potential of Pickering emulsifiers and quinoa starch. “Pichering emulsifiers are increasingly needed in the market due to their superior skin safety profile and increased consumer demand for natural and sustainable solutions,” Raffray said.
Based on existing scientific and academic research, the R&D team develops Pickering emulsion with quinoa starch “providing surprising sensory benefits while its small particle size allows for the formation of stable emulsions.” I identified it as an option,” she explained.
Subsequent industrial development processes to generate functional ingredients in cosmetic formulations required optimizing particle size, ensuring compatibility with various formulation systems, and verifying emulsification performance under different conditions.
Formulation challenges and stability tests
The development of Pickering emulsifiers that balance stability and ease of formulation was a key issue. “Unlike standard emulsifiers that rely on surfactant molecules, PickMulse uses particles to stabilize emulsions, creating fundamentally different mechanisms of action, allowing emulsions to be created with high levels of stability. “I’ll do that,” Roy shared.
The researchers established that the ingredients only require 5% to emulsify the 20% petroleum phase, allowing for formulations with lower oil concentrations while maintaining performance, she confirmed.
Stability testing also played an important role in the development process, ensuring that PickMulse maintains emulsifying properties across a variety of pH levels, temperatures, and formulation types.
Lucas Meyer’s cosmetics, by researchers at clariant, focused on ensuring compatibility with industrial-scale production without changing standard processing times, speeds, or equipment requirements.
Impact on skin and microbiota considerations
The interaction of PickMulse skin barriers with microbiomes was also an important area of focus during the development process. “When applied, PickMulse respects the natural lipid layer of the skin. It is often referred to as a ‘mortar’ between skin cells that supports barrier function,” Werle said.
“It’s different from surfactant-based emulsifiers,” she added. “It helps to maintain skin integrity and resilience without disrupting this important structure.”
Microbiota studies were conducted to assess whether emulsifiers had an impact on the natural balance of skin microorganisms. The R&D team said, “We are avoiding disrupting the membranes of microorganisms that are naturally present in the skin. This is currently widely recognized as important for maintaining skin health.” explained Werle.
Investigating sensory and nervous system research
Another area of research focused on the sensory experience of formulations using pickles.
“Despite this possibility, there are very few Pickering emulsifiers in the market. In many cases, particle size-related limitations achieve a desirable balance of stability, sensory and visual appeal,” Raffray said. It states, “Pickkmulse overcomes these challenges with optimized small particle sizes. It not only shows exceptional stability, but also allows for the creation of emulsions that provide excellent sensory experiences. ”
Therefore, Trunet explains that neurosphere studies using functional MRI (fMRI) imaging were conducted to investigate how formulations using pickles affect catalytic reactions in the brain. did.
“In this study, gentle touch to skin treated with pickle-based emulsions has been activated more important areas of the brain associated with positive emotions and reward systems than emulsions made with traditional benchmarks. It became clear,” she shared.
Encapsulation and functional benefits
Beyond emulsification, PickMulse was studied for its encapsulation capabilities, offering additional functional advantages to the formatter.
When Pickkmulse’s quinoa begins its gelatinization component when heated in water, Trunet allows for a transformative encapsulation process that brings microcapsules. “These microcapsules act as protective barriers,” she further explained. “It protects sensitive lipophilic components such as oxidative damage and UV decomposition, such as retinol, vitamin palmitate, coenzyme Q10 and even high-value unsaturated oils.”
The researchers also evaluated how encapsulated activity was released upon application, improving delivery and effectiveness. The ability to encapsulate high value cosmetic active within standard formulation settings, trunet offers the potential to provide alternatives to external encapsulation processes, reduce production costs and simplify development workflows. there is.
R&D procurement and sustainability
An important aspect of Pickkmulse’s development was ensuring responsible sourcing and sustainability. “This procurement is perfectly in line with our commitment to supporting the local economy in endemic areas of quinoa crops,” Tornett said.
“To further strengthen our positive impact,” she said, “Bolivia is dedicated to promoting sustainable management of Andean grains and technological innovation for a more resilient local economy.” We have partnered with the organization, Proinpa Foundation.”
The company collaborated with researchers and agricultural experts to optimize quinoa’s agricultural technology to ensure higher yield quality while maintaining an ecological balance.
Research has also been conducted to evaluate how different agricultural practices affect the quality of ingredients and how to efficiently process raw materials without compromising sustainability.
Industry reception and future research
According to Lucas Meyer Cosmetics of Clariant, beauty industry experts are actively responding to Pickkmulse’s research-driven approach. In particular, the formula and early adopters responded favorably to the “ability to simplify the formulation process” of the ingredients, Trunett said.
Looking ahead, Clariant’s Lucas Meyer Cosmetics will continue to consider additional applications for potential optimizations for its formulation.
The company is also investigating further nervous system research and investigating expanded encapsulation capabilities to expand its potential use within the cosmetics industry, the team confirmed.
