During our conversation with Grady, CosmeticsDesign had the opportunity to learn more about behind the scenes of dsm-firmenich’s research and development process. Grady spoke about Eterwell Youth, which recently won a Gold Award in the Innovation Zone Best Ingredient Award – Active Ingredient at In-Cosmetics Global 2024 and was also named a finalist for the CEW Supplier Awards: Ingredients & Formulation (hosted by NYSCC) during the NYSCC Supplier Day Convention. We also learned more about some of dsm-firmenich’s upcoming innovations and how the company’s innovations fit into current industry trends around ingredients and product formulations.
Eterwell Youth: What it is and how it works
Made from alpine fireweed, Eterwell Youth is designed to address skin damage caused by senescent cells, or “zombie cells,” that form in response to exposure to damaging sources like UV rays and air pollution, Grady explained. Once formed, senescent cells are known as “zombie cells” and can spread to other cells, accelerating the signs of aging in the skin, Grady said.
As detailed on the DSM-Firmenich website, Eterwell Youth has been shown to “restore the appearance of skin up to 6 years after 2 weeks and up to 9 years after 3 months in vivo,” making it a “true anti-aging active.” [which] Excessively removes senescent cells in vitro (52% with 0.03% Eterwell Youth)
Other Innovations and Future Trends
“People are also raving about Persol Shield,” Grady explained later in the interview. Persol Shield is a new UV filter due to be released next year that will be the first approved in the U.S. in 25 years. “It’s photo-stable, can be used with other UV filters, and minimizes the white cast that’s common with topical sunscreen products.”
As for how Eterwell Youth and Persol Shield fit into the current market environment, Grady explained, “We’re a house of science,” quoting the company’s tagline at the event, “Science is what we believe,” highlighting DSM Firmenich’s commitment to backing up the efficacy of ingredients with research and data to best meet consumer needs.
At the end of the interview, Grady concluded that if he were to describe the company in three words, DSM Firmenich is “scientific, sustainable and passionate about the role of innovation in the field of cosmetic and personal care formulations.”
To get a deeper understanding of our conversation and find out more about what to expect from dsm-firmenich in the coming months, be sure to watch the full video interview above.
