International Flavors & Fragrances Inc. (IFF) has developed a new desaccharification technology that allows the extraction of betaine from sugar beet molasses, a byproduct of sugar production. This process supports sustainable ingredient development in the cosmetics and personal care industry, an area where environmental responsibility and product effectiveness are increasingly emphasized.
The technology increases sugar yields in sugar mills by 12% and also produces a betaine-rich sidestream that can be refined and commercialized. According to Alexandra Schuler, Sustainability Director for Health and Biosciences at IFF, this innovation is an important step towards minimizing waste in the production process. “Our desugarization technology allows us to extract more sugars from sugar beet molasses than traditional methods, and the resulting betaine can be used in beauty and personal care products for its moisturizing and protective effects. ” she said.
The role of betaine in skin care and hair care
Betaine, a naturally occurring osmolite, helps cells manage water balance. It plays an important role in protecting the skin from environmental stresses such as UV rays and dryness. IFF’s crystallized betaine, GENENCARE OSMS BA, was developed for use in cosmetic formulations in response to consumer demand for effective moisturizing products.
Dr. Schuler highlighted the scientific basis for betaine’s effectiveness, explaining that betaine helps protect keratinocytes, the main cells of the epidermis, from hyperosmotic stress. This process supports long-term skin hydration. “Betaine’s role as an osmolite is essential for maintaining the skin’s moisture balance, and is especially important under environmental stress,” she added.
Addressing market trends in sustainable ingredient transparency
In the cosmetics and personal care industry, there is a growing demand for both product efficacy and ingredient transparency, and Schuler further notes that “54% of U.S. consumers are interested in product efficacy rather than simply out of curiosity.” “We are actively researching the ingredients in our products to confirm that.”
GENENCARE OSMS BA is positioned as a solution to address these consumer concerns. This means it is certified as upcycled by Where Food Comes From, meaning it is derived from by-products that would otherwise be discarded. This certification has become even more important for brands aiming to meet consumer expectations for environmentally friendly products.
Versatility throughout the formulation
GENENCARE OSMS BA’s versatility extends beyond skin care and plays an important role in hair care and toiletries. In skin care, betaine-derived ingredients reduce transepidermal water loss by contributing to strengthening the barrier function. “It provides long-term hydration, protects proteins, and strengthens tight junctions in the epidermis,” Schuler explained.
In hair care formulations, betaine improves tensile strength, reduces fiber breakage, and reduces frizz, making hair more manageable, especially under humid conditions. Additionally, this ingredient reduces irritation caused by surfactants in toiletry products and enhances the overall sensory experience by improving the quality of the foam in rinse-off products.
“One of the main advantages of GENENCARE OSMS BA is its flexibility in formulation. It is water-soluble and easy to use, allowing it to be incorporated into a wide range of personal care products,” Schuler said. Betaine’s crystalline form allows for accurate measurements and ensures consistent formulation and efficacy, making it attractive to formulators.
The shift to upcycling cosmetics
The development of GENENCARE OSMS BA reflects broader trends in the cosmetics industry towards upcycling and waste reduction. IFF’s process of reusing by-products of sugar production exemplifies this approach. Schuler emphasized that upcycling is “quickly moving from a niche concept to a mainstream trend” as brands increasingly seek sustainable sources of raw materials.
Schuler acknowledged that while upcycled raw materials have promise, scalability may be difficult due to logistical hurdles. Still, she emphasized the importance of innovation in both raw material development and supply chain management to realize the full potential of upcycled products.
Energy efficiency and carbon footprint reduction
IFF has also taken steps to ensure that GENENCARE OSMS BA’s production processes are in line with its broader sustainability goals. The company’s Finnish production facility has implemented technologies to reduce carbon emissions, including the use of biofuels and mechanical steam recompression to reduce steam consumption. These efforts have reduced carbon emissions by about 19,000 tons per year, Schuler said.
“The combination of increased biofuel usage and energy efficiency technologies has significantly reduced the environmental impact of our production processes,” Schuler explained. IFF’s life cycle assessment shows that GENENCARE OSMS BA captures more carbon than it emits, consistent with the industry’s move towards more sustainable manufacturing practices.
Future outlook for sustainable raw materials
Looking forward, IFF plans to expand its portfolio of sustainable raw materials through continued innovation in both technology and sourcing. Schuler said upcycling will remain a central focus as consumers become more willing to invest in products with ethical and environmental certifications.
“We expect a significant increase in sustainable raw material development, with a particular focus on upcycling and waste reduction,” concludes Schuler, adding that both market demand and environmental goals will be met He pointed to the company’s extensive efforts to develop compatible raw materials.
