‘Beyond sulfate-free personal cleansing technology’ comprehensive study published this week in the scientific journal cosmetics, Highlighting advances in sulfate-free cleansing products.
The study, authored by Evelyn Su of Sino Lion USA and Stephen Herman of the University of Cincinnati, which received no external funding, delves into the limitations of traditional sulfate-based surfactants and the promise of amino acid-based alternatives. I did.
Growing demand for sulfate-free products
This research builds on rapidly increasing consumer demand for sulfate-free formulations and is in line with broader sustainability and safety trends. The authors state that “the purpose of sulfate-free personal cleansing technology is to look beyond the absence of the word “sulfate” in the list of ingredients to its true benefits in both personal use and environmental effectiveness.” “We should,” he emphasized.
These benefits include gentleness, biodegradability, low carbon and water footprint, and renewable potential.
According to this study, sulfates such as sodium sulfate (SLS) and sodium sulfate (SLES) have been the mainstay of personal care formulations due to their cost-effectiveness and performance in foam production. However, these surfactants have major drawbacks.
The researchers explained that “sulfates can excessively strip oil from the skin, scalp, and hair, breaking barrier integrity and increasing water loss through the epidermis.” Additionally, SLE manufacturing often results in contamination with 1,4-dioxane, a carcinogenic byproduct.
Advantages of amino acid-based surfactants
This study positioned amino acid-based surfactants, specifically glutamate and alaninate, as the next generation of safe and sustainable cleansing ingredients. “Of the possible amino acid-based surfactants, glutamate for skin cleansing and alanate for hair cleansing are the best choices for both performance and commercial viability,” the authors said. .
These surfactants offer inherent safety and are biodegradable, consistent with increased consumer scrutiny of ingredient sourcing.
Additionally, the researchers outlined technological advances in addressing formulation challenges with glutamate, such as achieving desired viscosity without sacrificing performance.
“The difficulty in glutamate thickening is due to the large and multicharged head group,” the authors write. Additionally, they say, “Our patented technology allows us to overcome this challenge by overcoming glutamate surfactants and ampholytic conditions, ensuring consistent viscosity throughout the formulation.” said.
Safety and calm: key selling points
This study highlighted the mildness and safety of surfactants at the glutamate and alanine interfaces compared to traditional sulfates. Using MTT50 and red blood cell tests, researchers demonstrated that Cocoyl Sodium Glutamate and Alaninz outperform sulfates like SLE in safety and irritation potential.
“Sodium cocoyl glutamate has the highest MTT50 value of the surfactants tested, demonstrating excellent mildness,” the researchers wrote, “In contrast, SLES demonstrated the lowest safety index. I did,” he added.
Additionally, glutamate contributes to reducing irritation and residue left by other surfactants. The study found that “addition of 2.5% monosodium cocoyl glutamate to conventional SLES-based formulations reduced skin SLES adsorption by 55% and improved mildness and skin feel.”
Environmental and market influences
Researchers also highlighted the environmental benefits of moving to amino acid-based surfactants. Derived from renewable sources, these surfactants offer lower water and carbon footprints compared to their sulfate-based counterparts.
The study further highlights broader market implications. “Sulfate-free products have demonstrated an annual growth rate of approximately 18% since 2010, driven by consumer demand for safer, more sustainable, ‘free-from’ formulations.” . ”
This research provides a solid foundation for cosmetic and personal care manufacturers to rethink their formulations. By integrating amino acid-based surfactants such as glutamic acid and alanic acid, companies can deliver on consumer demands for safety, sustainability, and performance.
As the authors conclude, “The quest for better cleansing products therefore promises a greener planet for future generations.”
journal: cosmetics, 2025, 1214. doi: 10.3390/COSMETICS12010014“Beyond Sulfate-Free Personal Cleansing Techniques.” Author: Su, E. ; Herman, S.
