Literature review published in cosmeticsA detailed look at the analytical methods used in cosmetics research through the lens of emerging trends in the industry. While many recent practices are important in the cosmetics field, continued innovation will be critical as the industry continues to explore bio-based ingredients and grow globally.
The analytical methods covered in this study include electronic nose technology, colorimetric analysis, product stability evaluation parameters, rheological and chromatographic analysis.
trend analysis
The authors discuss trends in the cosmetics industry, particularly those influencing analytical methods and the creation of new analytical methods. These include improved sustainability, such as bio-based raw materials, and increased industrial growth in Asia, Latin America and Eastern Europe. Cosmetics account for about 18% of the personal care market, and the global beauty market in 2023 is valued at US$625.7 billion.
“A significant paradigm shift observed recently is the transition from petrochemical-based feedstocks to bio-based natural alternatives,” the authors write. However, challenges exist in replacing synthetic raw materials, which are often lower in cost, with biological raw materials. These challenges include complex ingredients, high costs, raw material variability, regulatory compliance, and limited availability.
These challenges make analytical methods essential to ensure that biobased formulations are safe, effective, and of high quality.
In this review, 257 publications were analyzed and 190 were selected. Search terms such as cosmetics, analysis, stability, and formulation were used.
Analysis procedure
The analytical methods discussed in this study can be classified into five groups: interfacial analysis, rheological analysis, spectroscopic analysis, chromatographic analysis, and cosmetic stability.
- interface: In this study, we will discuss in detail the interfacial methods of olfactory measurement and electronic nose. “The ability to combine analytical and sensory techniques enables diverse analyzes of different samples and provides new insights into the properties of these samples,” the authors write. Electronic noses work in a similar way to how we smell, with sensor arrays acting as olfactory receptors. “Due to its simplicity, affordability, cost-effectiveness, and speed, the electronic nose could become the future reference standard for determining the authenticity of cosmetic products.”
- Rheology: Rheology is the study of material deformation and flow, and studies the viscosity of things such as lotions and hair conditions to assess stability and performance. New techniques such as computer modeling and simulation are emerging in the field of rheology.
- Spectrometer: Spectroscopic analysis includes colorimetric analysis performed by instrumental analysis or visual evaluation. “By employing advanced equipment, software, and controlled lighting environments, both researchers and manufacturers can accelerate the development of superior products,” the authors write. These tools, they continue, help accurately assess and manage color characteristics and maintain consistent quality.
- Chromatography: Chromatographic analysis falls into two categories: liquids and gases. Liquid chromatography analysis looks for preservatives, sunscreens, colorants, and antioxidants. Gas analysis is performed on fragrances, preservatives and nail products. Fragrance allergens are not only toxic but can also have negative effects on the human body, so it is essential to conduct a thorough analysis before product launch.
- Cosmetic stability: “Stability studies are conducted to define the shelf life of the product and evaluate necessary adjustments to formulation, packaging materials, storage conditions, transportation, etc. to ensure health and meet consumer expectations.” writes the author.
Temperature, light, and centrifugation are used as stress mechanisms to assess stability within cosmetic products. The authors argue that analytical centrifugation, a new technique, is “novel” to the field.
sauce:
cosmetics2024, 11(1), 1; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11010001
“Meta-analysis and analytical methods in cosmetic formulation: A review”
Author: Rico, F. et al.
