As an esthetician for 35 years and a skin care product formulator trained in cosmetic chemistry, I know for sure that many false expectations are being sold about the latest and greatest “miracle” ingredients. This means that it is easy to be fooled by marketing. Hype.
While we’ve seen many ingredients come, go, and come back (hello, hyaluronic acid!), one that remains stable is vitamin C. Why? It has the effect of evening out pigmentation by blocking the overproduction of melanin, which causes hyperpigmentation. Additionally, by actually working on the face, I was able to see an incredible improvement in my client’s skin and give her the brightness she desired.
But…not all vitamin C ingredients are included, and what is currently considered the “gold standard” is tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, also known as THD ascorbic acid.
So let’s take a closer look at this ingredient.
What is THD Ascorbate?
THD (tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate) is an inactive form of vitamin C. THD ascorbic acid differs from other forms of vitamin C in that it is an oil-soluble ester rather than water-soluble. Being oil-soluble means that the reaction is not initiated and converted to L-ascorbic acid until it comes into contact with skin oils, making it the most stable compared to other forms of vitamin C. Because it uses oil instead of water, it doesn’t require the low pH of water-soluble versions.
Why would I choose THD Ascorbate over other types of Vitamin C for my face?
Have you ever felt a tingling sensation with vitamin C products containing ascorbic acid, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, or ascorbyl methylsilanol pectate? Yes, this is due to the low pH and potentially the condition of the skin barrier. It shows. Pain from low pH vitamin C is understandable (read more about pain from skin care products here), but it’s your skin that’s grateful to be exposed to daily “no pain, no gain” attacks. That doesn’t mean. Aim for bright skin. The skin’s pH is around 5.0, but many water-soluble acids can have a pH of 4.0 or lower, so that’s where the “pain factor” comes from.
Just like exercise, some discomfort is necessary if you want to see results for your overall health and longevity. But when it comes to skin, there are treatments like retinol, prescription retinoids, at-home peels, 7-day skin challenges, and professional treatments like microneedling, dermaplaning, and lasers (like the Moxi laser I had on my own skin). I like to leave things for treatment. And chemical peels.
If your goal is to create a smoother, more even-toned texture with less visible pores, you may experience side effects that can compromise your skin’s barrier and cause irritation, but using it every morning Makes the skin more sensitive. Low pH vitamin C serum? no. I’m not a fan of that at all.
(If you feel the barrier is damaged, repair it using the following method.)
How effective is THD Ascorbate in reducing brown spots and hyperpigmentation?
I was introduced to tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate in 2004 when I was looking for a better solution for my clients who suffered from hyperpigmentation caused by the sun, hormones, and breakouts. Initially, I marketed a 2% hydroquinone product targeting pigmentation, which is still known to be very effective, but during my cosmetic chemistry class at UCLA, I discovered the promising potential of THD for melanin production. I learned about the effects. Beyond its lack of irritation, what stood out was its stability. Every last drop works, so you get the most out of your investment.
This started my THD journey and within 2 years I vitamin c serum using this ingredient. The results during testing were incredible, and when I launched it and recommended it to my clients, I noticed that over the course of a few weeks to months, their tan marks, brown spots, and pimple marks disappeared very quickly. Improved. I phased out the hydroquinone serum and started using THD ascorbate. As a result, it turned out to be much more effective for skin whitening.
What percentage of THD ascorbate is effective?
More important than looking at the ingredient list (known as the INCI list) is the type of product it is used in. THD ascorbate takes time to penetrate the skin, so it’s best used in leave-in products. It is not recommended for skin cleansing products as the THD does not have time to work. THD also penetrates the skin better, so its usage levels are much lower than ascorbic acid. Consumers often prefer higher percentages of ingredients, but more is not necessarily better. Your skin doesn’t need as much THD as ascorbic acid to benefit from it. For example, some studies show that THD has a collagen-increasing effect of only 0.1%. For skin whitening, a low effect of 0.5% has been observed.
How to read the ingredient display is as follows.
To be honest, it’s not the INCI list that matters, it’s the type of product that uses it. THD ascorbate takes time to penetrate the skin, so it’s best used in leave-in products. It is not recommended for products that wash off the skin as the THD does not have time to act. THD also penetrates the skin better, so its usage levels are much lower than ascorbic acid. While it is understandable that consumers want a higher percentage of ingredients, more is not necessarily better. (Pretty much what social media is trying to tell you!) You don’t need as much THD as ascorbic acid for your skin to benefit from it. For example, some studies show that THD has a collagen-increasing effect of only 0.1%. For skin whitening, efficacy is as low as 0.5%.
Are there any scientific studies that prove how THD can help improve discoloration?
Science background: Major manufacturers of THD have conducted hundreds of studies on the benefits of THD, which has helped it achieve quasi-drug status of 3% and 2% in Japan and South Korea, respectively. Ta. Unfortunately, these studies have not been published, but there is peer-reviewed research on the benefits of THD on the skin, both alone and in combination with other whitening ingredients.
How often should I use vitamin C serum?
The benefits of using vitamin C serums are when used daily as part of your morning routine. In addition to inhibiting melanin production, the full range of vitamin C protects skin cells from environmental damage. It removes free radicals, which are unstable molecules that cause skin damage and accelerate skin aging. Free radicals constantly bombard us from a variety of sources, including UV rays from the sun, ozone, smoke, and pollution. All of these can also cause your skin to naturally become depleted of vitamin C over time. That’s why it’s so important to supplement with oral antioxidant products.
Bonus: Vitamin C prevents collagen breakdown and promotes healthier collagen production. First, it protects existing collagen by inhibiting enzymes that break down collagen. Second, it helps produce healthier collagen because it is a cofactor for two enzymes needed for collagen building and cross-linking.
When should you use vitamin C serum in your daily life?
It’s always in the morning. My favorite way to use it is: After cleansing and toning your skin, apply two pumps. Vitamin C+E treatment Gently press it into your skin with your fingertips and let it absorb into your skin for about 1 minute. This gives the strong material time to do its job before I move on to the next step.
Then finish with your favorite pore-clogging cream Waitress Protection SPF 30locks everything in and protects your skin from nasty free radicals. A simple but highly effective combo that leaves your skin feeling fresh, nourished and ready to go from day one.
Conclusion about THD Ascorbate: This is an ingredient that I really value because of the research and it’s one of those ingredients where you can actually see a difference, which is not the case with many ingredients, even though it’s still effective, unlike trendy ingredients. Therefore, it has staying power. .
THD is the most stable form of vitamin C and is now considered the “gold standard for vitamin C”, so it doesn’t require as low a pH to be effective, which is good for our skin barrier. Good news. I hope you consider giving it a try Vitamin C+E treatment It’s formulated with a pH of 5.3, so it’s gentler on the skin than others.
From my hands to your face, your skin barrier will thank you!
Did you know that these five ingredients can help restore your skin’s barrier?
Celebrity Esthetician & Skin Care Expert
As an esthetician trained in cosmetic chemistry, René Rouleau has spent 30 years researching skin, educating audiences, and building an award-winning product line. Her hands-on experience as an esthetician and trusted skin care expert has resulted in real-world solutions: products formulated to: 9 different skin types So your face gets exactly what it needs to look and feel its best. Trusted by celebrities, editors, bloggers, and skin care enthusiasts around the world, it’s her vast real-world knowledge and constant research that has led Marie Claire to call her one of the “Most Passionate People We Know.” That’s why I call him a “specialist skin practitioner”.
