let’s talk about different amounts of developers!
Have you ever wondered why permanent hair color has two parts and why they only work when you mix them together? Well, one of the tubes contains the actual color, One is hair color developer.
And one cannot work without the other.
But what is a hair developer? Why should I mix it with my own color? Can it damage my hair?
There are several different levels of hair developer, each with different features.
Some of them are more harmful than others. Some lighten hair, others darken it…and some are better at covering gray hair than others…
This ultimate guide for various developers will answer all your questions…
💡 Hint: Don’t forget to pin this hair color Post your boards to Pinterest and come back to them whenever you want. 👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼
What do developers do?
Hair dye developers work by opening the hair cuticle just enough to allow color to enter and exit the hair. If you don’t mix the developer with your hair color, the color won’t penetrate your hair and will be washed away easily.
The amount of developer solution refers to the amount of hydrogen peroxide contained in the developer solution. Additionally, the amount of peroxide determines how much the cuticle layer opens during the process.
hair color level
First of all, we have to talk about the level of hair. This makes it easier for developers to understand how different volumes work.
As you can see, it measures the level of hair color on a scale of 1 to 10.
Level 1 is black and level 10 is very light blonde. The lighter the hair, the higher the level number. For example, medium brown is level 4.
To be clear, this does not describe the shade of the color. It’s just a way to measure how light or dark a color is.
When coloring your hair, you need to determine your current level and your desired level.
Hint: You can find out your target level by looking at the number of the hair color you are using. For example, 5N means that with the right amount of developers the end result will be level 5.
Learn more in our guide to reading hair color numbers/labels.
lift and deposit
Deciding whether to lift or deposit is also important.
lift It means to “boost” your hair color to a lighter level. For example, if your hair is brown and you want it to be blonde, you should do the following: lift that.
deposit This means that it deposits hair color molecules into your hair, darkening it.
You will also need to decide what level of lift or deposit you want to achieve. To go from level 5 brown to level 8 blonde, you need to grow your hair 3 levels higher.
Keep in mind that virgin hair color (hair that has never been colored) will react differently than colored hair. Read more about the golden rules for lifting hair color.
What are the different volumes in Developer?
• volume 10 developer (10V / 3% Peroxide) The developer deposits the color, making the hair darker than it originally was. It works by lifting the cuticle layer enough to deposit the pigment. Use this to set color without lifting (including most hair toners and demi-permanent hair colors).
• volume 20 developer (20V / 6% peroxide) is most commonly used. First of all, it is perfect for covering gray hair. It is also used to maintain the existing hair color level of the hair or increase it by 1-2 levels.
• volume 30 developer (30V / 9% Peroxide) Lifts hair up to 3 levels and is commonly used in conjunction with lighteners.
• volume 40 developer (40V / 12% Peroxide) lightens hair up to 4 levels. Often used in lighteners and high-lift blondes, it may be necessary for darker hair. Some high lift collars require double 40V for even more lift. Please note that the 40V used in lighters can cause disastrous damage if used incorrectly.
Less commonly used developer types
There are less commonly used developer volumes such as 5V, 15V, 50V, and 60V. Based on what you’ve learned here, you should be able to understand what each one does.
Disclaimer: We never recommend using voltages above 40V. However, there are 120 rolls of developer, which can be diluted to create other densities. While this may sound great, keep in mind that it can be difficult to obtain as most shipping companies cannot transport it.
Isn’t it something you want to wear on your head?
FAQ
The 10 capacity developer is intended for pigmenting hair without lifting. The 20 capacity developer is intended to lift hair 1-2 levels. A 30 volume developer will lift your hair 3 levels and a 40 volume developer will lift your hair 4 levels.
Which 20-30 capacity developer you choose depends on your desired lift level and desired hair color.
20 volume developer is commonly used for minimal lift or covering gray hair.
The 30 capacity developer provides more lift and is suitable for darker hair colors or if you want a bigger change.
Keep in mind that using higher amounts of developer can be harsh on your hair. Therefore, it is important to consider the current condition of your hair and the amount of lift you need.
20 volume developer is commonly used in hair color formulations for various purposes. Common uses include:
Gray coverage: It is often used to cover gray or gray hair by providing sufficient lift and color penetration.
Tone on tone color: If you want to go a little darker, or if you want to maintain the current color without lightening it, a 20 volume developer is a good choice.
Minimum lift: If you’re looking for minimal lift or just want to brighten a few shades, 20 Volume is a gentle option compared to larger volumes.
Lower weight: If you want to add lowlights to your hair, you can use a 20 volume developer to darken certain areas.
It’s important to note that developer choice depends on your specific hair color goals. If you are unsure, we recommend consulting a professional hairstylist to determine the appropriate developer and color formula for your hair type and desired results.
final thoughts
If you are interested in DIY hair color, you must learn how to properly formulate hair color. One of the most important aspects of mixing dyes is using the appropriate level of developer.
Some developers are intended to lift, while others simply deposit color. For gray hair, he recommends using a 20 volume developer for optimal coverage. If you are conditioning your hair, he recommends using a 10-volume developer for deposits.
Depending on your hair’s current look and what you’re trying to achieve, you can use this guide to prescribe the best color for your hair.
Until next time,
meet the author 🤩
Hollee is a licensed cosmetologist with over 9 years of professional experience in the hair industry. With her unique insight and her versatile experience, she will help you discover the latest hair trends or make your next DIY hair project a success..
learn more!
🌟 Your turn: Did you learn something new about the different volumes of developers? Have questions about how it all works? Let us know what you think in the comments section below. 👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼
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