Modern nail hardeners that use polymers instead of formalin or dimethylurea function differently but can still provide a protective effect. Here, we’ll explain in detail how they work, their mechanisms, and whether they can address recurring problems like tearing and peeling.
How polymer-based nail hardeners work
Polymer-based nail hardeners generally work by creating a durable coating on the surface of the nail, rather than forming crosslinks within the keratin structure (as formalin and dimethylurea do). The polymers used are often acrylics, resins, or other film-forming agents that bond to the nail surface and form a shield against physical damage.
This coating:
- It acts as a protective barrier against water loss and environmental stressors.
- Reduces the effects of daily wear and tear that can weaken your nails over time.
- Gives temporary strength and thickness to the nail surface, making it less likely to bend or break.
Do polymer-based nail hardeners form crosslinks?
No, most polymer-based nail hardeners do not form crosslinks within the nail keratin. Cross-linking involves creating covalent bonds within or between keratin molecules. This is done by formalin (a derivative of formaldehyde) reacting directly with proteins in the nail. Dimethylurea also promotes crosslinking, but is less irritating than formaldehyde.
In contrast, polymer-based hardeners rely on forming a physical film on the nail. This is a mechanical barrier rather than a chemical reinforcement of the nail matrix itself. Some advanced formulations may contain certain ingredients that interact with the keratin surface or enhance adhesion, but they do not chemically bond in the same way as crosslinkers. .
Effect on cracks and peeling
For nails that are prone to splitting or peeling, polymer-based hardeners offer some benefit, but may not be as effective in the long term as cross-linking agents such as formalin.
Here’s why:
- Tears and peeling: These are often caused by an underlying weakness or layering of the nail plate, which cross-linking agents counter by strengthening the keratin structure. Polymer-based hardeners may reduce immediate damage by forming a protective barrier, but do not address the underlying weaknesses that lead to cracking and delamination.
- Temporary solution: Polymer-based hardeners can help prevent further damage, but are more of a temporary solution. Because the structural integrity of the nail itself does not change, it may not completely resolve recurring cracks or peeling, especially if the nail is already weak or brittle.
- Less chance of damage: On the plus side, polymer-based hardeners tend to be gentler and less likely to cause brittleness than traditional cross-linked hardeners, which can make nails too hard and break easily. For people with sensitive nails, it may be a safer option for daily use.
Overall comparison with formalin-based nail hardeners
Polymer-based hardeners provide surface-level protection, but generally cannot strengthen nails from the inside out as effectively as formalin-based products. However, overuse of formaldehyde-containing products can cause irritation, allergies, and excessive brittleness, so it’s often safer to use them long-term.
In summary
- Polymer-based nail hardener Rather than chemically bonding with keratin, it protects your nails by forming a durable coating.
- they are Does not form crosslinks Being within the structure of the nail, its effect lies in external protection rather than internal strengthening.
- while you can Temporarily reduces damage, tearing, and peelingmay not address the root cause as effectively as cross-linking agents such as formalin.
- However, they are generally Safer and less harsh It can also be used on nails, so it’s perfect for people whose nails are sensitive or already brittle.
If cracking or peeling occurs repeatedly, under the guidance of a nail care professional, alternating between polymer-based hardeners and mild crosslinkers can help balance strength and flexibility. Additionally, regular moisturization and maintaining a balanced diet with adequate biotin, vitamins, and minerals can help improve nail health from the inside out.
