When used topically in a serum, vitamin C is widely regarded as one of the best ingredients for brightening the skin, promoting collagen production, and protecting the skin from environmental damage. Because it is very popular 2024 Medical Spa Show At the venue I attended, vitamin C was a hot topic. However, not everyone is as positive about this as you might think. Whether you’re an esthetician, dermatologist, or just a skincare enthusiast, you’ve probably heard that there is a big drawback when it comes to this ingredient: vitamin C acid burning.
So what is this? Certain vitamin C formulations applied daily to the skin can cause a burning or stinging sensation, along with redness, warmth to the skin, or general irritation. This happens because topical vitamin C triggers a neural response in the skin. When your skin senses exposure, it alerts you to something you don’t want, in this case a low pH product. However, I believe this side effect should not cause you to stop taking vitamin C completely. Let me explain.
Benefits of vitamin C in daily skin care
Adding a topical vitamin C serum to your skin care routine can be extremely beneficial to your barrier and improve your skin’s overall health. The most notable reasons are:
- brightens skin tone
- Perhaps its most revered effect is vitamin C, which reduces skin pigmentation and makes the skin appear brighter.
- Promotes collagen production
- By inhibiting enzymes that commonly break down collagen, this ingredient not only protects the collagen you already have, but also helps produce healthier collagen.
- protects from environmental damage
- Vitamin C’s powerful antioxidant properties neutralize free radicals, protecting skin from damage caused by UV rays, pollution, and other environmental stressors.
- Enhances skin hydration
- This ingredient has also been proven to have moisturizing properties, helping to increase hydration levels and plump the skin.
Understanding vitamin C sensitivity
Understand why this painful burning or stinging sensation sometimes occurs– And what can you do about it!
Why does vitamin C burn or sting?
Burning sensation is usually caused by three things:
- really low pH. Low pH levels of 2.5 to 3.5 can irritate the skin. These can make your serum more acidic, which can compromise your barrier and increase your chances of burning, especially if you have sensitive skin.
- Contains a large amount of ascorbic acid. It must contain at least 8% of this ingredient to be effective on the skin. At about 22%, the skin can no longer absorb it. Therefore, most of these tingling vitamin C serums have a low pH and are high in ascorbic acid. Because this acid is a very small molecule, it can easily get into your skin and disrupt your natural pH balance.
- Barrier damage or recent use of active ingredients. People who use active ingredients (such as retinol, retinoids, or exfoliating acids) or who have compromised barrier function are more likely to experience a stinging sensation. This is because exfoliating acids and retinoids increase skin turnover, leaving the surface skin more raw and exposed. Your barrier is already compromised, and if you continue to use vitamin C, your skin won’t have enough lipids to protect it from low pH products. This causes a more negative experience and can actually cause more inflammation.
Don’t give up – there is a solution!
Just because you suffer from vitamin C acid burns doesn’t mean you should avoid the ingredient completely. There are still ways to get all the benefits of vitamin C without getting acid burns. Let’s talk.
- What to avoid
- Low pH products- These can cause long-term inflammation in the skin, accelerating signs of aging and increasing pigmentation (increased pigment production can occur when the body receives signals that there is inflammation) . Look for formulas with a ph range of 5.0 to 5.8. A reputable brand should be able to tell you the pH if it’s not published.
- No pain no gain philosophy – Unlike retinol, pain (stinging) is not a sign of vitamin C effectiveness, but may be a sign of irritation.
- Vitamin C sandwich Retinol sandwiches are a great way to get all the powerful benefits of retinoids without drying, peeling, or irritation, but the same can’t be said for this ingredient. Sandwiching a vitamin C serum between two layers of moisturizer actually only inhibits ascorbic acid’s ability, rather than minimizing the potential side effects of vitamin C.
- what will you do
- Find alternatives – There are many types of vitamin C used in skin care, but which one you choose is definitely important. If you’re experiencing vitamin C acid burn, it’s time to look for a more stable formula. Read on to decide which one is right for you.
find stability
Looking for stable vitamin C is the best way to avoid vitamin C acid burns, but what exactly does this mean?
What does “stable vitamin C” mean?
When you hear that a form of vitamin C is “stable,” this refers to the product’s ability to maintain its effectiveness over time, even when exposed to air, light, and temperature. Stable vitamin C typically maintains its potency longer, is less susceptible to oxidation, and may contain supporting ingredients that increase its effectiveness.
Have you ever noticed that your white or beige serum is starting to turn yellow or light brown? This means that the product is starting to become unstable and oxidize, and you will no longer receive all the intended benefits. means that
It’s important to note that all skin care ingredients, even the most stable vitamin C serums, will eventually expire. Please try using it before you lose it!
Why are vitamin C formulations important?
Choosing the right vitamin C treatment may seem a little complicated, but vitamin C doesn’t always work the same way, so it’s important to understand the differences. Vitamin C formulations are important because they can have a significant impact on the stability, effectiveness, and overall performance of vitamin C products. Factors such as active and inactive forms of vitamin C, pH value, additional ingredients, and even texture, scent, and overall feel can greatly influence how your skin responds to a particular product.
What is the difference between vitamin C&E treatments?
What’s so great about it? Vitamin C&E treatment This means that we do not use large amounts of ascorbic acid. and It has a more skin-friendly pH. Using both lipid and water-soluble vitamin C, this serum provides powerful antioxidant action deep within the epidermal layers.
This whitening cream with tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (THD) has a slower release time than water-soluble molecules, giving the active vitamin C a longer shelf life and less chance of irritation. If you want all the benefits of vitamin C without the burn, this long-seller is for you.
Tips for choosing a stable vitamin C product
It may seem scary, but don’t be discouraged by the vast variety of vitamin C products on the market. Here are some tips to avoid pain and find the serum that’s right for you.
Ingredient check
When it comes to common forms of vitamin C in skin care, four come to mind: L-ascorbic acid, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl methylsilanol pectate, and tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate. The differences between them are as follows:
- L-ascorbic acid: Despite its tried and true ingredients, it’s not your best bet when it comes to antioxidant protection. L-ascorbic acid, the only active form of vitamin C, is highly unstable and, because it is an antioxidant, will try to react with almost everything in the environment. This means that this ingredient is more likely to oxidize before it penetrates your skin.
- Sodium ascorbyl phosphate: best option for skin type Fighting pimples, this is proven Helps improve acneBut they can still be quite reactive.
- Ascorbyl methylsilanol pectate: Not just a simple vitamin C derivative, but a complex blend of many compounds, this form has been shown to strengthen skin cell membranes and improve delivery to the skin.
- Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate: This is one of my personal favorites (and the star ingredient in Vitamin C&E treatments). This is because it is the only oil-soluble vitamin C mentioned so far. Therefore, it does not react until it comes into contact with skin oils, making it the most stable form of these four. Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is known to penetrate the skin 20 times more than ascorbic acid.
Packing matters
As mentioned earlier, vitamin C serums are highly unstable and react to almost everything, from light, heat, oxygen, water, and metals. This is why product packaging makes a big difference.
Light, especially UV light, can degrade the ingredient and make it less effective, so this ingredient should be packaged in opaque or colored bottles to avoid exposure to light. Ideally, the product should also have an airless pump to minimize exposure to air and keep the serum fresh for longer. Both of these can reduce the risk of contamination and ensure the desired effects are delivered to the skin.
How to use vitamin C for comfortable use
Want to start your journey toward the best vitamin C for yourself, but are worried about the results? Here’s the best way to get started.
patch test
Finding the vitamin C product that’s right for you may take a little trial and error, but you don’t have to break down your skin barrier in the process. When trying a new product, I recommend a patch test first. Applying vitamin C to your neck (where your skin is most sensitive) can help you determine which types of products or ingredients cause negative or allergic reactions on your face. This will help you narrow down which skin care products or ingredients to test in the future.
In conclusion, vitamin C is a highly regarded skin care ingredient known for its ability to brighten skin, promote collagen production, and protect against environmental damage, but some people may experience the dreaded vitamin C acid burn. there is. This burning or stinging sensation can be caused by factors such as low pH levels, high concentrations of ascorbic acid, or damage to the skin barrier. However, I don’t think that should stop you from reaping the benefits of vitamin C. By understanding the causes of sensitivity and choosing a stable formulation, you can effectively and comfortably incorporate vitamin C into your skin care routine. With the right approach, vitamin C can be a beneficial addition to any skin care regimen, promoting healthier, more radiant skin.
I hope you found this post informative. And as always #obeyrenee
Celebrity Esthetician & Skin Care Expert
As an esthetician trained in cosmetic chemistry, René Rouleau has spent 30 years researching skin, educating audiences, and building an award-winning product line. Her hands-on experience as an esthetician and trusted skin care expert has resulted in real-world solutions: products formulated to: 9 different skin types So your face gets exactly what it needs to look and feel its best. Trusted by celebrities, editors, bloggers, and skin care enthusiasts around the world, it’s her vast real-world knowledge and constant research that has led Marie Claire to call her one of the “Most Passionate People We Know.” That’s why I call him a “specialist skin practitioner”.
